How To Repair Teak Toe Rail

whatfiero · Oct 30, 2011 542 klidescope 30t norfolk

You can become either way oil every / twice a year varnish every 5 yrs ore Cetol every 10 or final option leave and allow grey teak is supposed to last a long time fifty-fifty untreated it has natural oils in information technology that requite it a 50+ life bridge

Merlin Clark · Oct 26, 2005 2,057 - - Satellite Beach, FL.

I've started using epoxy resin and post-obit with spar urethane for UV protection. Information technology has held up perfectly on my tiller merely I keep it covered then that'southward not much of a test. The rest of my trim is manmade deck lumber.
On uncovered trim, the UV protection, either varnish or urethane will degrade and need sanding and recoating and the epoxy is there to keep the wood from degrading.

Pat · Jun 7, 2004 one,250 Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Society, Wichita, Ks.

I have an Oday 34. I Need to refinish the teak toe runway I am looking for some ideas. Last season as I was running out of time i stripped what was left of the old terminate and gave it a few coats of oil. It would exist a job to sand, mask and then varnish. Any ideas would exist swell or is oil skillful enough? The rest of the teak on the gunkhole is finished with captians varnish.
Thanks for whatsoever assist

Nosotros alive in Kansas where we've had 50 or more days above 100 for the past 2 years, so nothing lasts long...we take ended upwardly using teak oil after basically sanding the teak away...Cetol here seems to final maybe 3/4ths a season in the bright sun...but looks cracking as does varnish...We have several boats at our social club with synthetic woods and honestly it looks smashing & seems to
hold upwards longer...as I think nearly information technology nosotros've been in this LE 26 years and at that place is petty toe rail left...also bad every bit they await bully only are non piece of cake to intendance for.
Pat

Stu Jackson · Feb 26, 2004 22,042 Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada

pcj,

It really all depends on what You lot want to meet on YOUR boat, and how much "work" you lot desire to put into it.

There are merely three different options:

1. bare wood, let information technology go gray

two. oil - which needs to be redone periodically or it will become blackness

3. coatings: Cetol, varnish or other types.

Your boat, your choice.

Heresy 101: you don't accept to take your toe rails the same as the rest of your brightwork.

Tejas

Depending upon how things are counted, a fourth way is sealer. We on an inland lake in texas and use Semco Cleartone sealer. We seal (sand very lightly, tape, wipe on two coats with a rag) once a year, accept Sunbrella toe rails covers and mist occasionally with white vinegar to foreclose mildew.

Ducati

Pick Stu's Option #one

I agree with Stu's #1 proffer.

There are just iii different options: - #1. bare wood, let it go greyness

Worked best for me on my boat:
Sand information technology down smoothen and wash it once a week and permit it become grey.
(Common salt water rinse works all-time)

That fashion you tin spend more time sailing and less time doing brightwork.

Have fun!

Chris Burti

Discussing finishes is much of a kind of discussing organized religion, that said, I posted most of the following on a another site recently and hope y'all find it helpful.

I prefer an oil finish as a mater of personal choice. Varnish is georgeous and I admire information technology on other skipper'south boats. However, but would rather spend my fourth dimension sailing rather than spend the time information technology takes to get information technology both right and durable. When I see that easy, durable cease so favored by so many and and then instantly recognizable from so bully a altitude...I tend to get a mental picture of portraits of dogs playing poker painted on velvet...happy for you, just non my style.

I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' lid and share some 'old schoolhouse'
information virtually oil finishes.

A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
results...this leads to poor performance which, in plow, leads folks to
buy other easy to use products which though more than durable, are
ofttimes junior in advent.

Skillful teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, and then most
people volition opt for the cheap stuff which has a low pct of solids
and may not accept any UV protection added at all.

The style oil finishes work is that they comprise resins (solids) and
solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied hands and to
penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins harden
leaving a smoothen and relatively durable finish.

It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build up
a good end. Since inexpensive finishes contain a higher percent of solvents
to striking a lower cost point, it takes many more coats to obtain the aforementioned
quality finish as the ameliorate products...oops...that actually makes the
cheap stuff more than expensive.

To make matters more disruptive, there are better quality brands that are
cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products volition have the percentage
of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products that
are packaged in clear bottles. Milkshake the products plenty to produce some
bubbles and you tin can readily see the difference in viscosity. The products
with thicker fluids will accept a higher solids content.

Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid
that is a mutual ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not impairment the
forest fibers, (also a peachy rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh h2o and
let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as the
grooves trap dirt. Exercise not utilise anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
as finer grits will close upwards the woods pores and reduce the penetration of
the end.

To maintain the finish, wash ofttimes with balmy soap and water and
when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually
means recoating at to the lowest degree twice a yr and quarterly would be all-time...it is
pretty easy to utilise a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than permit
information technology get. If you lot have any teak fastened to Fiberglas, wax the glass or tape it before
applying your teak oil and any spills volition make clean right up.

Now, if yous're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your own
teak oil.

Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.

High solids tung oil
Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
Boiled Linseed oil

You tin purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
department of any big box store.

Chris Patterson · Oct 17, 2011 2,808 Ericson 29 Southport..

Dalys. In that location really is no other teak oils worth fooling with. It'southward a process to do it right, with a higher varnish content, but worth it. I ordered a gallon recently from the company at 53 dollars a gallon, (but 25 to send it). I use information technology on interiors mostly. It's a skilful prep oil for the beginning of the truly cute varnish job on exteriors, and I employ no other.
Conduct in listen that I am one of the pathological varnishers that believe that null less than 10 coats of Schooner is a waste matter of time, and I exercise this piece of work commonly. But do I recommend this to the boilerplate boater? Maybe not. But because information technology takes a nifty amount of enthusiasm to undertake this kind of work. There have been great volumes written about the art of varnishing, and I won't begin to try here. Simply if yous desire that truly beautiful boat, with gleaming brightworks, it is an odyssey. It takes fourth dimension, dedication, money, and sweating blood to become it right. I've shed tears, and lost sleep doing this. Family mad. People walking by on the docks shaking their heads.
But the end result is continuing proud on a completed projection. The other sailors asking, "How do yous practice it?".
Not by standing on the afterdeck drinking margaritas I assure you.
While everything else is 2d rate IN MY OPINION, it will set you apart from the average.

RichH

If you desire something that has the equivalent gloss of varnish, lasts for 10-12+ years with simple 'maintenance', can exist powerbuffed between quick 'maintenance' clear coats (every 2-3 years in northern climates) ... Id propose Honey Teak a two office base coat with a two part articulate glaze.

Honey Teak is EXPENSIVE but when you amortize over its service life, it comes out being the cheapest of all. The only requirement is that it has to be exist applied THICK for the initial base coats and it has a HIGH learning bend. www.signaturefinish.com

This is what 12 year old Love Teak looks similar, with only maintenance coats applied at 2-3 year intervals: http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/svAquila/HT1.jpg http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/svAquila/HT2.jpg, This is burmese teak so yous have to understand the 'nighttime' colour unlike 'plantation teak'.

MSter · Apr 12, 2010 131 Sabre 38' MK II Oriental, NC

RichH
Totally Awsome!
Mike

zeehag

i keep mine fairly natural--no, non silver or grey, just natural colored, washed clean with ocean water and then oiled with a tung oil finish or watco, which will last me as long a sneeded for sailing season, renewed easily with a washing with sea h2o, and application of oil finish just earlier rainy season begins.
so far, has taken 6 hours, yearly, to maintain.
the ingredients on my characterization for the oil finish are the oil and mineral spirits. period.

RichH · Feb 14, 2005 4,773 Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD

Dalys. There really is no other teak oils worth fooling with. It's a process to do it right, with a college varnish content, only worth it. I ordered a gallon recently from the company at 53 dollars a gallon, (but 25 to ship information technology). I use it on interiors more often than not. Information technology'southward a expert prep oil for the beginning of the truly beautiful varnish job on exteriors, and I use no other.
Bear in listen that I am one of the pathological varnishers that believe that nil less than ten coats of Schooner is a waste material of time, and I exercise this piece of work normally. But practise I recommend this to the boilerplate boater? Maybe not. Only because it takes a slap-up corporeality of enthusiasm to undertake this kind of work. In that location accept been great volumes written about the fine art of varnishing, and I won't begin to try hither. But if you want that truly beautiful boat, with gleaming brightworks, it is an odyssey. It takes time, dedication, money, and sweating blood to become it right. I've shed tears, and lost slumber doing this. Family mad. People walking by on the docks shaking their heads.
Only the stop effect is standing proud on a completed project. The other sailors asking, "How do you practise it?".
Not by standing on the afterdeck drinking margaritas I assure you.
While everything else is second charge per unit IN MY Opinion, it will set you autonomously from the average.

If you select an oil terminate, I advise using a 'resinated' oil such equally "NuTeak" by MaryKate ... gives you several 'options'.
A 'resinated' oil finish is typically direct oil with the addition of 25-30% of oil based varnish! Since its basically an oil finish, yous will have NO problems in removing it - simply soak with TSP to lift, bubble and soften information technology, scrape it, bleach the forest, and re-apply.
Downside is since it is an 'oil end', it volition somewhen turn 'dark' - just hands removable with TSP.

Resinated oils can be either-
ane. applied and 'wiped' - but like all 'wiped' oils dont last very long.
2. applied in many THICK coats (no wiping), then later the oil 'cures' - flat-sanded and 'finished' ('polished' past mitt-rubbing with rottenstone + h2o) to arrive at a gloss equal to or Meliorate than the all-time loftier quality varnish chore youve ever seen. Downside is that takes a long time for resinated oils to 'harden'.

If you can locate some of the 'newer' nano-engineering UV 'filters', you might want to experiment past calculation some to the resinated oil ... should greatly lessen the gradual 'concealment' of the resinated oil finish. Such nano-tech UV filters will usually initially result in a 'butter-scotch' colored 'hue', but will soon fade to 'amber' in a few weeks.

All-time of all, oil and resinated-oil finishes are '

easily removable' past soaking with TriSodiumPhosphate - TSP.

Rick486

From my feel on my Pearson 39 for 23 years I can say that toe rails are the almost hard brightwork on the gunkhole to maintain any finish for any menses of time. Toe rails are bailiwick to flexing as the yacht heels to the breeze while sailing, and flexes in a seaway. Whatever "rigid" finish such as varnish or epoxy volition eventually develop cracks which permit water infiltration and deterioration of the finish resulting in the dreaded yellow or black streaks and spots. After a number of years of trying to make varnish work, sanding and refinishing, I went to Cetol and it held up the best. Some other important point is that it is critical that the toe rail is fitted snugly to the deck to prevent h2o from infiltrating the wood from below, which volition destroy the varnish. Finally, most toe rail have "fishes" or joints where sections of forest have been joined. These as well must be tight to forbid water intrusion. Very difficult challenge just well worth it to see brilliant gleaming toe rails.

How To Repair Teak Toe Rail

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